The Problem with Retinol
Most of us know retinol as an anti-aging product used to diminish the look of fine lines, wrinkles, and roughness. What we don’t know is that prolonged use of retinol can cause damage to the skin resulting in “retinoid dermatitis.” This happens with excessive inflammation causing redness, flaking skin, burning, itching and increased sensitivity in the sun. Retinol, or retinoids, is a form of Vitamin A that converts to retinoic acid when applied to the skin.
The skin has protective mechanisms when substances are harmful. The natural inflammatory response is red, irritated skin. “The main function of the top layer of skin is to protect us, to keep away environmental factors. The more retinol you put on, the poorer the barrier function becomes. This is why a lot of people feel that their skin is very sensitive and experiencing peeling, flaking, and irritation.” -Dr. Mervyn Patterson, a cosmetic doctor at Woodford Medical.
Retin-A, the prescription-strength version of retinol, even comes with FDA-mandated warnings to avoid sunlight as it can trigger the growth of cancerous tumors when exposed to sunlight. With sunburns or damaged skin cells, this response eliminates the risk of cells becoming cancerous, and triggers the healing process. However, when you induce inflammation on healthy skin without a burn like retinol does, it simply leads to further skin damage and even cell death. Business Insider interview with Dr. Patterson
What is Bakuchiol and how is it different?
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Bakuchiol is a safer alternative to skin-refining retinol that is the active ingredient in Beautycounter’s new Countertime Collection! It has been proven to be just as effective as retinol, but it safe to use on the skin. It is even safe to use during pregnancy and nursing and to use during sun exposure. It received the EWG Skin Deep score of 1, where retinol scored an alarming 9! Check-out Allure’s article on Bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol is a plant extract derived from the Psoralea corylifolia plant, aka the “babchi” plant. The plant has a long and impressive skin-care history, starting with its use in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It is known for it’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as antibacterial properties. “Bakuchiol functions similar to retinol, increasing cell turnover thereby stimulating collagen production and diminishing the signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity, and overall photodamage.” -Sejah Shah, a board-certified dermatologist.
Beautycounter’s Countertime Collection:
The Countertime collection is designed to visibly reduce signs of aging and deliver high-performance clean skincare results, thanks to this innovative plant-derived Retinatural Complex. This is a four-step regime that helps skin improve with age by retaining its radiance, firmness, and overall youth.
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Beautycounter discovered that bakuchiol (along with other botanicals like Swiss alpine rose) would provide all the benefits of popular treatments for mature skin without running the risks of increased skin sensitivity. This clean beauty brand is my absolute FAVORITE as it a safe, non-toxic alternative to all your makeup and skincare essentials. The company has a line for women, men, AND children, along with all your sunscreen essentials. Article by Zoe Ward on The Retinol Alternative You’re Starting To See Everywhere
The first steps to healthy skin are repairing your barrier and dampening down inflammation. “Choose products that use lipid formulations to ‘adjust’ the surface ratio of skin lipids back to normal. The ideal product would also contain a wide array of proven anti-inflammatories (examples of these botanical extracts include date, meadowfoam, and safflower) to dampen all pathways of inflammation,” Dr. Patterson says. This is a wonderful explanation that supports the intention behind Beautycounter’s new Countertime Line!
Countertime’s Key Benefits:
- Optimized Hydration: Strengthens barrier function and supports skin elasticity.
- Visible Regeneration: Smooths and refines the surface of the skin.
- Antioxidant Protection: Defends against daily environmental stressors.
Why a regimen? A regimen is a key to ensuring optimal performance and results out of your skincare products. Each product is developed with a specific purpose and is designed to work best when used in combination with the other steps in the regimen. They build upon each other for optimal results.
Cleanse – Countertime Lipid Defense Cleansing Oil. Inspired by Asian beauty rituals, this oil removes makeup and other impurities without stripping essential lipids from the skin.
Prep – Countertime Mineral Boost Hydrating Essence. Lightweight but deeply nourishing, this milky essence delivers vital nutrients to the skin’s moisture barrier—instantly boosting hydration and radiance.
Treat – Countertime Tripeptide Radiance Serum. This transformative rejuvenating treatment visibly increases skin firmness and elasticity, while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Protect (AM) – Countertime Antioxidant Soft Cream. This velvety revitalizing cream improves skin’s barrier function and boosts hydration.
Protect (PM) – Countertime Tetrapeptide Supreme Cream. This rich cream supports elasticity and visibly firms while smoothing the skin’s texture.
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